As soon I as I heard that there would be a surpsise reveal of the new pinball machine, I wanted to try it. It was in the Crawl Con room by Rengade Games in the Indiana Convention Center.

What is Dungeon Crawling Carl?

Well, you are about to hear about it from everyone you know. Buckle up.

Dungeon Crawler Carl is a wildly popular LitRPG series by Matt Dinniman that kicks off with a guy named Carl running outside in nothing but his boxers, a leather jacket, and his ex-girlfriend’s tight pink Crocs to catch her prized tortoiseshell Persian cat, Princess Donut. That wardrobe choice saves their lives: seconds later, aliens flatten every building on Earth, killing everyone indoors.

The survivors are herded into a colossal underground dungeon and forced to fight their way down floor by floor. The entire death trap is broadcast across the universe as a massive reality show, meaning sponsors, fan popularity, and audience bloodlust dictate who lives or dies. Carl teams up with Donut, who gains human speech and immediately weaponizes her pampered show-cat ego to manipulate the galactic viewers. Meanwhile, the dungeon’s AI develops a weird, sadistic foot fetish and actively refuses to give Carl decent lower-body armor, forcing him to fight off monsters while basically half-naked.

Because it’s LitRPG, the story includes video game mechanics like stat screens, loot drops, and system notifications. But it works perfectly as both a genuinely tense survival story and a hilarious, deeply angry satire about corporate greed and the entertainment industry. If you get into it, I recommend the audiobook. They are narrated and voiced by Jeff Hays. His performance is so good.

What is Dungeon Crawler Carl Pinball?

Dungeon Crawler Carl is a pinball machine based on the Dungeon Crawler Carl book series, written by Matt Dinniman. You play as Carl, accompanied by Princess Donut, navigating the various dungeon levels and all of the dangers and challenges it presents. Fighting mobs, battle bosses, cast spells, build your viewer count, collect friends, and figure out how to not just survive in the dungeon, but also how to get vengeance! Every aspect of the game combines to immerse you into the story. This includes a host of thematically integrated interactive mechanisms, an audio experience led by Jeff Hays voicing all of the characters, new artwork from Luciano Fleitas, Brad Albright, as well as other Dungeon Crawler Carl artwork shared by Renegade Game Studios, and game rules that connect you with all of the major events and plotlines and many of the minor plotlines as well.

After getting a chance to see the surprise reveal of the game, I got my own surprise. Matt came out to hang with the pinball players and talk about the weather… I MEAN DUNGEON CRAWLER CARL. Matt kicked off something bizarae and sweeping. Like I said, buckle up!

On my journey, I met Tasker Smith. Right from the start, Tasker had a unique point of view about pinball and life. He didn’t slam the machine, but he also had feelings about getting better. He turned failures into lessons and was always awesome to play with. Then, he says he is writing a book. And, a very Tasker thing to do is to actually write a little bit a time and couple of years go by you have a book, then it is is getting published, then he is on a book tour.

Pinball: A Quest for Mastery is about pinball, but it is also philosophy. The book is not about being a master at pinball; it is about being on the quest. The book shares history, demystifies rule complexity, gives you a primer for understanding the game, and what it takes to get better and why. I feel Tasker just shares a user manual with us on how to approach any hobby or pursuit.

I recommend the book for players of all skill levels. I find myself opening the book, flipping to a section, and learning something interesting no matter where I read. This also echoes one of Tasker’s viewpoints: take every moment to learn, get better, and make your own luck. The book is filled with advice and resources. The book doesn’t leave you feeling alone. I thoroughly enjoyed the read!

Go to your friendly local bookstore and pick up a copy.

Congrats, Tasker!

The results are gorgeous! I learned a lot and will share more of the details when I get time. You can follow the live build here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/atari-superman-playfield-wall-art

Inserts and Plastics

When I got the playfield home, I realized that I didn’t have the complete playfield. I only had the wood and the printed art. Every insert, plastic piece, and post was removed. The original owner was planning a playfield restoration and had stopped at some point. The artwork was touched up and looked beautiful, but probably would not work for playing pinball on it. The inserts were going to be important since my goal was to place an LED behind them to make them glow.

I put out a post on Pinside looking for any old parts for the Atari Superman Pinball and got a few bites.

Soon enough, I got the original parts for this exact playfield. I got to meet up with the pinhead that donated the playfield to the museum. We chatted for hours about 70s and 80s pinball, swapped stories, and made a community connection. It was surreal to find the original owner, but the pinball community is a small niche hobby.

I also found the original Superman plafield plastic pieces. They shined right up with Novus Plastic Polish. The Novus cleaning products are a must if you work on pinball machines.

To mount the plastic pieces on the playfield, you need post mounts and post stud screws. The mounts were easy to find, but the stud screws were a challenge. New ones were about a dollar each. So, this didn’t scale well. I needed like 60 of them, so if my math is right, that’s $60. I turned to eBay and found someone selling “pounds of old pinball parts”. This came in at $90! Look at the savings. Somehow, I felt better about buying old used parts than buying new ones at a lower price… and in the process, I got a bunch of rusty parts I didn’t even need.

My old screw bucket was not happy that I bought someone else’s old screw bucket and didn’t even consult it.

Mounting all of the playfield parts took a lot of time, but you just do one at a time. I have a new respect for anyone who designs these things. 70s pinball was so much simpler than modern pinball machines, and it was still a lot of parts to track.

Flippers

I wanted to complete the top side of the playfield with flippers. So, I took old flippers from my Strikes and Spares pinball machine and cut them down for this build. Again, this will be wall-mounted, so you can’t have things sticking out too far in the back. They needed to be modded, and Dremel came to the rescue. Shooting a 6-foot stream of sparks across the room.

LED Control and CheerLights

Of course, it is connected to the CheerLights project. This was going to happen 100% of the time whenever I connected 150 LEDs to something. I used WS2811 bullet-style LEDs that you can control one at a time. They fit perfectly in the 12.5mm general illumination holes in the playfield. I used a WLED controller and a 3A power supply to control the colors, animations, and synchronization with the CheerLights MQTT server.

The insert near the flippers stays in sync with the latest CheerLights color while the rest of the inserts can have their own color or visual effects.

Out of the box, the best animation effect was Stream 2. This very much looks like an attract mode on a pinball machine.

3D Models

Part of the project was making my first 3D model to have the original pop bumpers mounted above the playfield but not connected to the original mechanism. Since this is wall art, I can’t have a mechanism sticking out 7 inches on the back. I also could not find the old-style pop bumpers on Maker World, so I designed my own… ish. Meaning it is not a pop bumper for function, it is a pop bumper to take light from an LED and let it shine through. I just published my first model!

For other parts needed, I found a person on Pinside who created a system called PinGlow. They were way ahead of me and had thought through the kind of stuff you are going to need for a wall art project like mine. They offer drop targets, stand-up targets, wall mounting kits, and even LEDs. I reached out to them on Pinside, and they offered to make a custom version of their drop targets specifically for the Atari Pinball machine. These drop targets had the Superman logo on them.

Project Demo

What I made

It’s called Gameroom Designer. It lays out your game room to scale, right in the browser. You set your room’s real dimensions, drop in machines at their real footprints, and slide everything around until it works, before you move a single machine.

You can try it here: https://nothans.github.io/gameroom-designer/

How it works

Start by typing your room size in feet (or meters, if that’s your thing). You get a room drawn to scale with a grid.

Then you fill it. There’s a searchable catalog of real stuff at real sizes: pinball (Stern, JJP, the Atari and generic widebodies), arcade uprights and cocktails and sit-down racers, a pool table, air hockey, foosball, shuffleboard, plus couches, bar stools, storage, the works. A 27-inch-wide pinball takes up exactly as much room next to an 84-inch sofa as it would in real life. Click an item to drop it in, or drag it straight onto the floor.

From there it’s the fun part. Drag machines around. Rotate them. Grab a whole row of pinballs, line up their edges, space them out evenly. Drop a dashed “clearance” zone around the pool table so you don’t forget you need five feet to actually swing a cue. Add doors, swing arc and all, so you can see the door won’t clip the cabinet you parked next to it. Zoom out to take in the whole room, use the minimap to get around, and when it looks right, export a PNG to show your partner exactly why the couch has to move.

There are a few example layouts built in, too, if you’d rather poke at a finished room than start from an empty one.

I built it fast, with AI

I built and shipped this fast using Agentic AI.

The interesting part was never “the code got written.” That’s kind of a solved problem now if you’re one person building one thing. The interesting part was the loop. I’d use the tool, hit something that annoyed me, and fix it right then.

Dragging a rotated block sent it flying to the wrong spot, so I fixed the math. Resizing a block didn’t stick, so I fixed that. I shrank my browser window and the whole layout looked like it had wandered off, so I wrote it up as issue #1 and fixed that too. Ideas showed up and went in the same afternoon: circular clearance zones, doors and windows, even spacing, drag-straight-from-the-library. Then a deploy to GitHub Pages, a banner, a little intro video.

None of that is magic. It’s a build-use-fix loop, run tight. The machine is fast at the typing, but knowing what to build next is still the whole job.

Your machine, your data

The whole thing runs in your browser. Your layout saves to your own machine, so there’s no account to make, no server to trust, and nothing leaving your computer. It’s free, and it’s open source under MIT, so the entire thing is on GitHub if you want to poke at it or fork it: https://github.com/nothans/gameroom-designer.

Tell me what’s missing

I just posted it over in the forum to get some real feedback, because I built this for people who have way more machines than I do.

So go break it. Tell me which machine I forgot, which part feels clunky, what you’d add. That’s the fastest way this gets any good.

They were right: the Bambu Lab P1S was plug-and-play. The 3D printer was calibrated. It then asked me to try a print with one of the built-in 3D models. George and I decided to go with the model scrapper. That’s meta. Making something with a 3D printer for the 3D printer. Then, we turned to Maker World and found a cool F1 fidget toy. It turned out well. My confidence grew. It was time to go big.

I have a Godzilla 70th edition pinball machine by Stern Pinball. It is my favorite theme. The pinball game is spectacular, one of the top-rated pinball machines of all time. The 70th edition has black and white… and red artwork. One thing that I always noticed is how punny Godzilla is in the machine. Godzilla is ticked in the corner. I searched around for mods and found some options. They all have a Pinside waitlist, and I didn’t get my name called after six months, so it is time to make my own.

My goal was to have a Godzilla model inthe game that was slightly larger than Mechagodzilla. Even Mechagodzilla got more prominence than Godzilla. I found someone on Printables who shared my challenge and goal. This is also a big part of what has changed in the 3D printing hobby. You are standing on the shoulders of giants. There are so many places to find 3D models, inspiration, tutorials, and videos. No excuses at this point.

First Step: Print the Godzilla 3D Model

I downloaded the STL files and imported them into BambuStudio. It was a straightforward process. I had to add supports. I recommend trees. Move from the prepare to the preview tab to start the slicing. I picked Bambu Lab Jade White PLA Basic filament. I checked out the 3D preview for a bit and hit Build. It said it would take 6 hours, and it did.

Second Step: Prepare the model for painting

I removed all of the support trees and lightly sanded Godzilla with 400-grit sandpaper. After that, I sprayed a black primer on the model. This will help acrylic paint adhere to PLA. This is a fantastic thing. I tried painting the raw PLA, but it didn’t work at all. Let it dry.

Third Step: Paint the Godzilla Model

This was a fun part for me. I had a lot of apprehension about painting it. I was going to run it. Then I realized that, at worst, I was six hours away from another model. At best, I prime it again. I chose Gray, Metallic Silver, and Metallic Black paints. The last model I painted was my Yoda model from the 80s, my toy Yoda. Classic joke.

After I finished it, I sprayed a UV-resistant top coat. It dried quickly. I am not sure if this step was needed, but I wanted to make sure everything was protected. I loved how it turned out.

Fourth Step: Install Godzilla…

The tiny Godzilla sits in the back corner, held in place with a couple of screws. The 3D model came with a base plate. I put that in first, checked clearances, and used two-sided Gorilla tape to hold Godzilla down to the baseplate. The Gorilla two-sided tape is also magical. It has held all of my mods in place over the years.

A spotlight shines on Godzilla, illuminating him during specific game modes. I adjusted it since this model is so huge. Looks awesome.

Fifth Step: PROFIT!

This 3D printer is just printing money. Okay, okay. I am getting ahead of myself. This was my third print. I went big, and I felt confident that this would work. It was fun to go the whole way. I overcame some fears of painting a model. I did it with the help of literally millions of people sharing on forums, YouTube, and 3D modeling sites.

What an amazing community. Hobby.

I found a King Kong figure on Pinball Life. My trick is to use Gorilla mounting tape to bond figures to the pinball plastics. I think it is kind of appropriate to use the Gorilla brand here. Irony aside, it’s the best tape I used for modding pinball machines.

I cut two squares for King Kong’s feet and pressed each square firmly for two minutes. Then, I removed the backing and placed it on the protector plastic near the powerlines area, again holding it down for two minutes. This seemed to fit and not mess with the ball path. It turned out marvelous.

What mods have you done? What is your dream pinball theme?

Update: May 2025

Well, I bought the Stern King Kong Pinball machine and put it next to Godzilla. Although it turned out the games are unrelated, I still love both themes.

But, for pinball, they have an excellent lineup. You get a sweet selection of new, the hotness, and some classics. At the time of this post, Hometown Arcade in Norwood, MA, has 14 pinball machines. Check the Pinball Map app for the up-to-date listing of pinball machines.

I picked Hometown Arcade to finally get to play Avatar: The Battle for Pandora pinball by Jersey Jack Pinball, designed by Mark Seiden and featuring artwork by Lea Faske. I love using Pinball Map to find new locations and locations that have the game that I want to play. Hometown had Avatar and Metallica Remastered. This was going to be a two-for-one trip!

I got to Hometown Aracde pretty much at the opening. I quickly scanned the pinball lineup to see if the Pinball Map listing was accurate. I saw all of the games that I came to play. BUT. Avatar was the only machine turned off.

While playing some other games, someone came over and opened up Avatar. I got to take a peak at the insides of this crazy complex machine.

It turns out that Avatar was only missing a ball. The tech added a ball, turned it on, and the machine came back to life. This someone turned out to be Matt, the owner of Hometown Aracde. Matt was awesome to chat with. He had created a welcoming arcade and a great place for pinball.

Avatar: The Battle for Pandora

I got to play Avatar: The Battle for Pandora pinball a bunch of times over a few hours. This game is glorious. I will try to summarize my experience here, but it is worth seeking out and giving it a try.

First, it’s the complete package: theme, art, code, and pinball gameplay. I didn’t get into the Avatar movies, but I could appreciate that the theme tied into the game. There were a lot of Avatar words and names that didn’t resonate with me: Meuia, Eyw’Eveng, Awa-atlu, Metkayina, Omatikaya, Oel Nagati Kameie. The labels seem too arbitrary to me since I didn’t see the movies. What I know about Avatar is that the movies are spectacles set in a huge world… and the papyrus font is used on off-brand teas and multibillion-dollar movie franchises.

The pinball gameplay is excellent. There are a lot of shots; some are straightforward, and others require clean hits from both sets of flippers. This game requires some time to learn the shots so you can experience more of the story and gameplay. My first few games ended quickly.

The big pinball moment for me came when I got to have the ball travel under the playfield and interact with the two “underwater” stations. Both stations offered a unquie pinball experience. Both were surprising on how to interact with them-a pop bumper and mini ball with smaller flippers. It was satisfying to defeat the “crab” (I am sure it has some Avatar-ified name).

As I played, I discovered Eclipse mode. This is where the whole game came together for me. At some point, the lighting changed, and it felt like I was playing a different machine. The game switched to UV lighting, which revealed a new world. Incredible.

This is the first pinball machine that I had to pay attention to balls that flowed down from the top sides. There are two upper playfield flippers. On most machines with upper playfield flippers, you can choose to flip them to get to new parts of the game or let the balls flow down to the bottom flippers and shoot the normal shots. This game required me to flip them from the upper playfield flippers every time. If you don’t move the pinball off the machine’s top sides, the balls will drain and end your turn abruptly. I found that I had to pay attention to the upper flippers.

I got to set the high score… the high score of the day. I was the only one who played it that day. I like that Jersey Jack Pinball has temporal high scores. It made me feel good. On other machines, you are not likely to have a high score, and not in my area, where some of the top-rated players in the world live.

All in all… I highly recommend you check out Avatar: The Battle for Pandora from Jersey Jack Pinball. It is an elevated pinball experience that will keep you wanting to get better so you can experience more of the game.

We don’t know much about the new pinball machine from Stern, but we know more will be revealed on January 3, 2025. We know there will be three models: pro, premium, and limited edition.

The teaser video gives a glimpse into the main mech of the machine. It appears to be an angry dragon with three hit switches.

It might be a rumor, but I hear that the design comes from Brian Eddy. Brian has created two of the top 10 pinball machines of all time. Medieval Madness and Attach From Mars.

DUNGEONS & DRAGONS Popularity

Every year, I go to Gen Con. This is a board game convention with a pen-and-paper RPG convention at its heart. Over the decades, I have watched the small side rooms get filled with more and more DnD players. I could tell it was getting increasingly popular, but I couldn’t imagine how much in recent years.

Over at Reddit, I found some analysis from Fibbonacci4242. They mapped DnD interest over time and overlayed some key events. A combination of podcasts like Critical Role and TV shows like Stranger Things accelerated the interest in DUNGEONS & DRAGONS.

DUNGEONS & DRAGONS seems like the perfect theme for pinball. I am excited to see how Brian Eddy innovates here. DnD offers a lot of story and game mechanisms to explore.

Stay tuned. I will update this blog post as I learn more.

Update: January 3, 2025 Reveal

The Stern Pinball website and YouTube channel were updated at noon EST. Information about all three models and pricing are now available. They also dropped an extended reveal video.

Playfield Photo

Update: DUNGEONS & DRAGONS The Tyrant’s Eye Pinball at CES 2025

Join Zach Sharpe and Seth Davis as they unveil the newest Stern Pinball creation, DUNGEONS & DRAGONS: The Tyrant’s Eye, at CES 2025 in Las Vegas. GeekGamerTV shows the first look at the world of epic adventures, intricate playfields, and cutting-edge pinball design.

The jack looked like my friend’s but didn’t fit under my machine’s leg. I did some more searching and realized that I had to modify the base of the jack to fit under the leg and get around the foot.

Here’s what I did to get these cheap jacks to work with my pinball machine…

Remove the Base of the Jack

If you buy the exact jack that I did from Amazon, the jack’s base is held on by two 3/16″ hex bolts. Remove the bolts.

Mark The Cut Line

On the center toe, mark a cut line just after the bolt hole.

Cut Off the Center Toe

Here’s where the real work begins. You have to cut this portion of the center toe so the jack’s base will fit around the pinball leg’s leveling screw. You can take your base plates down to the local maker space and ask someone to cut them off, or you could use a rotary tool like one from Ryobi or Dremel. Use a cut-off wheel designed for metal. I found a three-pack at Harbor Freight.

If you have never cut metal before, I would like to give you several warnings. Cutting metal with a rotary tool creates sparks and heat. I held the jack’s metal base with a wrench on a thick silicone mat. If I did this over again, I would have done it outside. Just take your time, make small cuts, don’t panic. Hold strong. Be careful.

Let the base cool and reattach it to the jack.

Profit.

You now have a set of pinball jacks for less than $40! Give them a try and see how awesome they are. You can now quickly level a pinball machine by yourself. You only have to slip the jack under the leg and pump the jack handle. This will slowly lift the machine so you can adjust the leg leveler screws.

Bonus. Teach Your Kid About Mechanical Advantage.

I used to watch Mr. Wizard when I was a kid. I distinctly remember an episode where Mr. Wizard tells a kid that they are going to be able to lift a car with one hand. Well, I got to teach the lesson to my son 40 years later. He loved the idea that he lifted a 300lb pinball machine with his hand.