The TV is a Magnavox portable from Facebook Marketplace, a Perfect View from August 1987, the kind with a handle on top, a rod antenna, and a 12V jack so you could watch it in the car.

The Pi is a 3 Model B+, the same board the reader had.

The false start: the original 2012 Pi

My first instinct was to do this on the least capable Pi in the house: the original Model B, board marked “(c)2011.12”, with the 4GB “Debian 6 for Linux” card it came with. Raspberry Pi OS still supports it, which is remarkable for a 2012 computer, and Node.js 20 installs from apt. The server half of CABLE 82 would run fine.

The TV half would not. The original Pi’s chip is ARMv6, and no current browser runs on it. Raspberry Pi dropped Chromium for ARMv6 in 2023; on the current OS it prints “This hardware doesn’t support NEON SIMD extensions” and quits. Firefox is built for ARMv7 and dies the same way. The one engine left is WebKit, with no JavaScript JIT, on a 700MHz core. I looked at that path for a while… and decided the tutorial should be about the channel, not about heroics.

What you need

• Raspberry Pi 3 Model B+ (or any Pi 2 or newer; a Pi 4 is a fine choice too).
• 16GB or larger microSD card. Mine is a SanDisk Ultra PLUS 16GB.
• Micro-USB power supply, 5V at 2.5A. The 3 B+ is the last micro-USB Pi.
• A network connection. Ethernet is simplest for the first boot; the 3 B+ also has Wi-Fi.
• 4:3 CRT with a coax antenna input. Almost every tube TV has one, which is why this is the path that works for everybody. Mine has nothing else: one F connector marked EXT ANT and a switch to pick it over the built-in rod antenna.
• HDMI-to-RF modulator, the little box that turns HDMI into channel 3 or 4 on the antenna input, plus a short coax cable. Mine is an “HDM61” unit; the same design is sold under a dozen brand names.
• Another computer to flash the card and to SSH into the Pi (needs to be on the same network as the Raspberry Pi).

Step 1: Put the OS on the card

Which image, and why

Raspberry Pi OS (64-bit), the desktop edition. It is the image Raspberry Pi’s own kiosk tutorial tells you to use, and there are two practical reasons to follow that advice on a 3 B+:

1. Chromium is the browser that will show the channel, and the 64-bit build is the one that has been solid on Pi 3 boards (the 32-bit build had a will-not-start bug on the Pi 3 as recently as this summer).
2. Node.js 22 from NodeSource is 64-bit only now; their installer refuses 32-bit outright.

The image is a 1.3GB download and takes about 6GB on the card, so 16GB leaves plenty of room.

Flash it with Raspberry Pi Imager

Raspberry Pi Imager is the right tool here, and not balenaEtcher or dd, because it can bake the hostname, your user, and SSH into the card before the Pi ever boots. That is what makes the headless setup work. Install it from raspberrypi.com/software, put the card in your computer, and walk the steps down the left side.

Device: Raspberry Pi 3. This filters the OS list to images that run on the 3 family (A+, B, B+, and Compute Module 3).

OS: Raspberry Pi OS (64-bit). The top entry, marked Recommended. Not the 32-bit one and not the “Legacy” one; Legacy is the older Bookworm release.

Storage: the SD card. Imager hides your system drives by default, so the only thing in the list should be the card. Mine shows up as a 14.8GB “Generic MassStorageClass USB Device” because it is in a USB reader; a 16GB card really is about 14.8GB once you count the way computers count.

Customisation. This is the part Etcher cannot do, and the reason the Pi will come up on the network with no screen attached.

• Hostname: cable82. That gives you cable82.local later, so you never have to go looking for an IP address.
• Localisation: your time zone and keyboard layout. The clock on the channel runs off the Pi’s time zone, so get this right.
• User: a username and password you will remember. You will type them into SSH in a few minutes.
• Wi-Fi: your network name and password. I set it even though the Pi would be on Ethernet for the build; it means the finished TV can live anywhere in the house.
• Remote access: enable SSH, password authentication. I also left Raspberry Pi Connect on, which gives you a browser-based remote shell to the Pi from anywhere, handy for a TV that lives in a corner.

Then Write. Imager asks once more whether it can erase the card, downloads the image, writes it, and verifies it. The write was the slow part: this card takes data at about 10MB/s, so the 6GB image plus verification took about fifteen minutes.

First boot

Imager ejects the card when it is done. Card into the Pi, Ethernet in, power in. The green light flickers for a while: the first boot resizes the filesystem to fill the card, generates SSH keys, and runs a one-time setup pass. Mine answered on the network in well under two minutes. Then from your computer:

ssh yourname@cable82.local

(If .local does not resolve on your machine, your router’s device list will show a cable82 with an IP address; SSH to that instead.)

Three things to check while you are in:

head -2 /etc/os-release
free -m
df -h /

Mine came back Debian 13 (trixie), 905MB of memory with about 570MB available, and a 15GB root partition with 8.4GB free after the 6GB image. The Pi had been up eight minutes by the time I got around to asking. Then bring the image current:

sudo apt update && sudo apt full-upgrade -y

(sudo asks for your password; recent Raspberry Pi OS releases turned off passwordless sudo by default.)

The Pi is on the network, current, and answering SSH.

Step 2: Node.js

CABLE 82 is a Node.js app with no dependencies, so Node is the only thing to install. It needs Node 18 or newer, and a fresh Raspberry Pi OS has none at all:

$ node -v
bash: node: command not found

That line, by the way, is almost certainly what was behind the reader’s “localhost refused to connect.” No Node, no server, nothing listening, and the browser reports it as a refused connection.

Two ways to get Node on a 64-bit Pi. The quick one is the distro’s own package, sudo apt install nodejs, which gives you Node 20. I went with NodeSource for Node 22, the current long-term-support line, and it is two commands:

curl -fsSL https://deb.nodesource.com/setup_22.x | sudo -E bash -
sudo apt-get install -y nodejs
node -v

Mine printed v22.23.2. (NodeSource only builds for 64-bit now; if you flashed the 32-bit image, use the apt route.)

Step 3: CABLE 82 on the air

With Node in place, the channel itself is next. Clone it and start it:

cd ~
git clone https://github.com/nothans/cable-82
cd cable-82
node server.js

It prints every address it answers on:

CABLE 82 broadcasting
  http://localhost:1982   (a browser on this machine)
  http://192.168.68.93:1982   (a browser on another device on your network)
Control room: http://localhost:1982/config

Read that second line carefully, because it is the other half of the reader’s problem. localhost means “this machine.” Typed into a browser on your laptop, it asks the laptop for a channel it does not have. The 192.168.x.x address is the Pi as seen from everywhere else on your network, and that is the one to open from the laptop. I did, and the channel was there: blue screen, the clock, the crawl.

The first run also writes a config.json next to the server, which is where everything you change in the control room ends up. Open http://192.168.68.93:1982/config from the laptop and make it yours: channel name, your messages, your feeds, your town for the weather. Save, and the channel picks it up within about twenty seconds.

Make it a service

Ctrl-C the server and hand it to systemd so it runs at boot and restarts if it ever dies. Create /etc/systemd/system/cable82.service:

[Unit]
Description=CABLE 82
After=network-online.target

[Service]
ExecStart=/usr/bin/node /home/cable82/cable-82/server.js
Restart=always
User=cable82

[Install]
WantedBy=multi-user.target

Both cable82s are my username; use yours (whoami tells you, and which node confirms the path on the ExecStart line). Then:

sudo systemctl enable --now cable82
systemctl status cable82

active (running) with the broadcasting lines in its log, and sudo journalctl -u cable82 -f is where to look if anything is ever wrong. The server sits at about 46MB of memory.

Step 4: Chromium in kiosk mode

The desktop image already logs in automatically and starts a Wayland session (the compositor is called labwc; the old LXDE desktop from earlier Pi OS releases is gone). Chromium 151 is preinstalled. All we have to do is tell the session to open Chromium full screen on the channel at login.

The file for that is ~/.config/labwc/autostart. Create it with these lines:

# CABLE 82 kiosk: wait for the channel server, then put Chromium on it full screen.
until curl -s -o /dev/null http://localhost:1982; do sleep 1; done
/usr/bin/lwrespawn /usr/bin/chromium http://localhost:1982   --kiosk --noerrdialogs --disable-infobars --no-first-run --no-memcheck   --disable-lcd-text --autoplay-policy=no-user-gesture-required   --enable-features=OverlayScrollbar --password-store=basic --start-maximized &

A few of those deserve a word:

• The until curl loop waits for the server to answer before launching the browser. Without it, Chromium can win the race at boot and show “localhost refused to connect” on the TV, and nothing ever tells it to try again.
• lwrespawn is a Raspberry Pi helper that restarts a program if it dies, so a crash brings the channel back instead of leaving a blank desktop.
• --no-memcheck stops Chromium from popping a low-memory warning over the channel on a 1GB board.
• --autoplay-policy=no-user-gesture-required lets the background music start without anyone clicking.
• --disable-lcd-text turns off subpixel font smoothing so the chunky text stays crisp white instead of going pink at the edges.
• --password-store=basic keeps the desktop keyring from asking for a password at login.

Then turn off screen blanking, or the TV goes dark after ten minutes:

sudo raspi-config nonint do_blanking 1

(Or interactively: sudo raspi-config > Display Options > Screen Blanking > No.)

If you are here from the original post: the chromium-browser --kiosk line and the /etc/xdg/lxsession/LXDE-pi/autostart file in that post were for the previous Pi OS release. On Trixie the binary is chromium and the file is the labwc one above.

Reboot. About a minute later Chromium was running full screen on the channel. I could tell from the laptop before the TV was even connected:

$ pgrep -a chromium | head -1
1407 /usr/lib/chromium/chromium ... --kiosk ... http://localhost:1982

Check the power supply while you are here

This section wasn’t what I expected. My first run was off a phone charger…

$ vcgencmd get_throttled
throttled=0xd0005
$ vcgencmd measure_clock arm
frequency(48)=600064000

Any bit set in get_throttled is a complaint; 0x5 means under-voltage and throttling right now, and the clock line shows a 1.4GHz Pi running at 600MHz. It worked, in the sense that the channel was on, but at less than half speed. With a proper 5V 2.5A supply the under-voltage bits cleared and the clock came back up. If you only run one check from this whole post on an existing Pi, run that one.

(On a 3 B+ you may still see 0x80008 with a 1.2GHz clock: that is the board’s own soft temperature limit at 60C, normal with Chromium running, and nothing to do with power.)

Step 5: The CRT

Note on photos of the TV… it turns out to be surprisingly hard to get a good photo of the screen. My phone didn’t capture it well. Also, the screen had a giant smudge backed into the acrylic covering the TV. I had to use Novus 2 polish to clean up the smudge and scratches. I assure you that it looks better in person…

The Magnavox has exactly one way in: an F connector marked EXT ANT.

So the path is HDMI out of the Pi into a small HDMI-to-RF modulator, coax from the modulator into the TV, and the TV tuned to channel 3. The box is the size of a cassette tape, takes USB power, has a CH3/CH4 switch, and its spec sheet says everything you need to know: NTSC out, 480p to 1080p in, sound on the 4.5MHz carrier (that means mono, the way 1982 did it).

Plug it all in and the channel was on the tube.

Send it a 4:3 picture

The box scales whatever it gets to fill the 4:3 tube. CABLE 82 draws a 4:3 stage, so if the Pi sends a widescreen mode, the stage gets squashed. The Pi has to output 640×480. On current Raspberry Pi OS the old hdmi_group and hdmi_mode lines in config.txt are dead; the kernel takes its orders from cmdline.txt, and the desktop then picks its own mode on top of that. So it takes two small files.

Append to the end of the single long line in /boot/firmware/cmdline.txt:

video=HDMI-A-1:640x480@60D vc4.force_hotplug=1

The D forces the output on even when nothing answers, and force_hotplug keeps it on if the modulator never raises the hotplug pin (mine does not). Then pin the desktop to the same mode in ~/.config/kanshi/config:

profile crt {
  output HDMI-A-1 mode 640x480 position 0,0
}

Without that second file, the desktop on my Pi happily chose 1024×768 on top of the kernel’s 640×480.

Give it an EDID, so there is sound

The first picture had no audio, and the reason is a good one: cheap modulators send no EDID, the little data block a screen uses to introduce itself. No EDID means the Pi does not know the “screen” can hear, and it refuses to send HDMI audio at all. So I made it one. The CABLE 82 repo now ships a 256-byte EDID that describes a 640×480 4:3 screen with stereo audio (edid/cable82-640x480-audio.bin, with the script that generates it). Hand it to the kernel:

sudo mkdir -p /lib/firmware/edid
sudo cp ~/cable-82/edid/cable82-640x480-audio.bin /lib/firmware/edid/cable82.bin

and add one more parameter to that same cmdline.txt line:

drm.edid_firmware=HDMI-A-1:edid/cable82.bin

Reboot. wpctl status now lists an HDMI sink next to the headphone jack; make it the default and give it some level (WirePlumber remembers):

wpctl status                       # find the "(HDMI)" sink's number
wpctl set-default <number>
wpctl set-volume <number> 0.8

The channel’s music came out of the Magnavox’s speaker on the next page turn.

Hide the cursor

A mouse pointer sat in the middle of the picture with no mouse attached. The HDMI CEC input counts as a pointer device, so the desktop draws one. The fix is a labwc keybinding that hides it, pressed automatically after boot. Copy /etc/xdg/labwc/rc.xml to ~/.config/labwc/rc.xml, add inside <keyboard>:

<keybind key="A-W-h"><action name="HideCursor"/></keybind>

then sudo apt install wtype and add to the end of ~/.config/labwc/autostart:

(sleep 10; wtype -M alt -M logo -P h -p h -m logo -m alt) &

The detour: composite

Before the HDMI modulator arrived I tried the other way in: the Pi’s 3.5mm AV jack, a 4-pole cable to yellow/red/white, and an old composite-to-RF adapter. On a Pi 3 that means sudo raspi-config nonint do_composite 0, which turns HDMI off; on every Pi before the 5 it is one or the other. The Wayland desktop also does not trust the composite connector until it is told the mode, so video=Composite-1:720x480@60ie,tv_mode=NTSC goes on the cmdline.txt line too.

Step 6: Make it readable

With everything working, the verdict on a 9-inch 1987 tube over RF: the big clock and the crawl read fine, the small text was marginal, and the red and blue pages were worse than the cyan one. That is NTSC. It smears saturated color, it clips pure white (broadcast engineers kept white at 90% for a reason), and the hard drop shadow under every character turned into ringing.

So I added a CRT set of settings in the control room for much older TVs…

• CRT mode swaps in a softer palette (less saturated backgrounds, 90% white) and drops the drop shadow.
• Text size enlarges the body text, kicker, crawl, and the small header lines, from 1 to 1.5x. I run 1.25 on this set; the big clock stays as it is.
• Overscan safe margin was already there; raise it if the TV crops the edges.

Turning text size up found one more thing: at 640×480 the weather card no longer fit and its HI/LO line slid under the crawl.

So pages now fit themselves: if the content would overflow, the weather card gives up its sunrise/sunset line first, then shrinks just enough, and a long fact does the same.

All of that is in the repo as of this post.

What changed because of this build

Three things fed straight back into the project:

• The original post now carries a dated update: the kiosk command is chromium in ~/.config/labwc/autostart on current Raspberry Pi OS, and the power supply got the mention it earned.
• The repo README was rewritten from this build, step by step as tested, with a Troubleshooting section keyed to the exact errors from the comment thread.
• CABLE 82 itself gained CRT mode, the text size setting, the fit-to-page behavior, and the shipped EDID, because a real 1987 tube demanded all four.

That is the part I did not expect when a reader said “localhost refused to connect”: the failure report turned into the best test pass the project ever had!

A channel of your own

The Magnavox sits there now, tuned to channel 3, being a channel. The clock, the bake-sale energy, the crawl, the beautiful-music bed coming out of a mono speaker that was built when the music was new. It is a thirty-nine-year-old TV showing a channel that stopped existing before the TV was built, fed by a computer the size of a deck of cards, and the whole thing works because somebody left a comment saying it did not.

So: if you build one and it refuses to connect, say so. That is how this channel gets better, and it is very 1982 of you. Thanks.

Fine for a side-project web app. Does not work for an inverted pendulum spinning on your desk.

The Pit and the Pendulum

MathWorks just published a Tech Talk by Brian Douglas. It is worth watching if you build hardware.

The setup is a Quanser cube servo with an inverted pendulum, a Raspberry Pi running the controller, and a coding agent wired into Simulink through the Simulink Agentic Toolkit. The agent’s job is to swing the pendulum up and balance it.

Balancing an inverted pendulum is a classic control problem because it’s unstable by nature. Get the math wrong and the pendulum falls. Get the code wrong and a 12V motor jerks the cube into something it shouldn’t.

What Happens If You Just Prompt It

The tempting move is the one most of us have done with web apps. Open a chat, describe the system, ask for the code. One prompt, big blob, ship it.

The MathWorks engineers walk through why that falls apart for hardware:

“If you rely on AI to generate code directly, that process is much less structured… it’s often unclear exactly how or why a particular implementation was created, making it harder to trust and verify.”

Brian Douglas

Hardware is unforgiving. You can’t roll back a destroyed motor with a git revert. When a physical system fails, you need to know which assumption broke, which equation got the wrong constant, which sample rate the controller is actually running at. A black box of generated C code doesn’t tell you any of that.

“You don’t want to let your AI agent skip parts of your engineering workflow. That’s how you can get yourself into trouble with a final product that doesn’t meet your objective or worse, is just purely unsafe.”

Brian Douglas

The Workflow Is the Script

The answer is to keep the AI inside the workflow engineers already trust: Model-Based Design. The agent doesn’t replace the workflow. It runs each step inside it, faster.

Define quantifiable requirements. Before any code, the human and the AI agree on what success looks like. Spin-up speed. Wobble limits. The 12V motor constraint. These targets become the benchmarks for verification later.

Use a trusted model. Instead of letting the AI invent a custom physics engine, the workflow points it at an existing Simulink model. The agent runs linearization through the Simulink Agentic Toolkit and reports the system’s poles back to the human. The math comes from validated tools, not from a language model freestyling differential equations.

Use a trusted controller. Same logic. The agent is told to use the MPC Toolbox. Model Predictive Control has decades of theory behind it and a deterministic implementation. If something looks wrong, you can tune it manually. You’re not debugging an optimizer the AI invented on the fly.

Verify in layers. Three stages before the code touches hardware:

• MIL (Model-in-the-Loop): the controller runs against the theoretical model
• SIL (Software-in-the-Loop): the generated embedded C code runs on a computer, behaving exactly like the simulation
• PIL (Processor-in-the-Loop): the C code runs on the actual target Raspberry Pi

Each layer catches different bugs. Skip one and you’ll catch that bug on hardware instead.

Deploy and iterate. Only after layered verification does the code go on the real pendulum.

“Instead of asking an agent to solve your problem however it wants, you tell it to follow an engineering workflow that you understand.”

Brian Douglas

The AI executes. The human directs.

The Hardware Truth

Here’s the part of the video I liked best. They ran the verified controller on the real pendulum and it didn’t quite work. The physical hardware behaved differently from the model.

This is what the vibe-coding fantasy ignores. Reality disagrees with simulation, especially the first time. You will need to iterate. The thing that matters is whether you can.

Because the team followed the workflow, they could. The model was traceable. The requirements were quantifiable. The controller was inspectable. They used the AI to update the physics model, ran it back through MIL, SIL, and PIL, and tried again. No starting over.

The workflow doesn’t promise perfect code on the first pass. It promises code you can fix.

The Director Pattern

A few months ago, I wrote about Seth DeLand’s framing of agentic AI for engineers. The headline idea: you’re not being replaced, you’re being promoted. The engineer becomes the one who defines the problem, sets the constraints, and shapes the space where the AI works.

The MathWorks Tech Talk is what that looks like in hardware. The AI isn’t the engineer. It’s the agent. You’re the director.

“Agentic AI is powerful, but for engineering, the value comes from how you use it. You get the speed and productivity benefits of AI without sacrificing trust, safety, or understanding.”

Brian Douglas

You don’t get speed and safety together by handing the AI a prompt and crossing your fingers. You get there by keeping the workflow you trust and letting the agent move faster inside it.

Speed without losing safety. Productivity without losing traceability.

For software, vibe coding is mostly fine. The blast radius is a wasted afternoon.

For hardware, the blast radius is a sparking motor and a pendulum on the floor.

Configure the Arduino IDE to Support the Arduino UNO RF WiFi Board

To use the Arduino UNO R4 WiFi board, you need to update and install some board drivers.

• Open the Arduino IDE (from Arduino) and update to v2.3.3 or newer.
• Go to the Boards Manager, search “Arduino UNO R4” and click INSTALL.

Controlling the LED Matrix

I am here for the LEDs.

Here’s how to use the onboard LED matrix, which requires the LED_Matrix library. Start your sketches with “#include “Arduino_LED_Matrix.h”, create an instance, and begin it in the setup section of your code.

Here’s an animation example:

#include "Arduino_LED_Matrix.h"   
#include "animation.h"            

ArduinoLEDMatrix matrix;  

void setup() {
  matrix.loadSequence(animation);
  matrix.begin();
  matrix.play(true);
}

void loop() {
}

I learned everything that I know about this from the Arduino documentation: https://docs.arduino.cc/tutorials/uno-r4-wifi/led-matrix/

The cool part is that the library includes predefined frames. You can load these, and the Arduino UNO R4 WiFi displays them without knowing how to code the frames.

#include "Arduino_LED_Matrix.h"

ArduinoLEDMatrix matrix;          

void setup() {
  matrix.begin();                 
}

void loop() {
  matrix.loadFrame(LEDMATRIX_HEART_BIG);
}

Here are the available frames in the LED_Matrix library:

• LEDMATRIX_BLUETOOTH
• LEDMATRIX_BOOTLOADER_ON
• LEDMATRIX_CHIP
• LEDMATRIX_CLOUD_WIFI
• LEDMATRIX_DANGER
• LEDMATRIX_EMOJI_BASIC
• LEDMATRIX_EMOJI_HAPPY
• LEDMATRIX_EMOJI_SAD
• LEDMATRIX_HEART_BIG
• LEDMATRIX_HEART_SMALL
• LEDMATRIX_LIKE
• LEDMATRIX_MUSIC_NOTE
• LEDMATRIX_RESISTOR
• LEDMATRIX_UNO

Going Further

George and I explored this new board together. We had a lot of fun trying out the examples from the Arduino documentation and experimenting on our own. You know that I will be hooking this up to CheerLights soon, but we noticed that the LEDs are only red. We will have to get creative. Then, George had an idea… He said, “Let’s make a CheerLights for emoji. Like, red could be a smiley face.” Great idea. I might just do that.

Parts

• Wi-Fi LED Strip
• Stream Deck – Any size

Concept

Here’s the idea. We are going to illuminate a box using a Wi-Fi controlled LED Strip. The LED strip that we are selecting uses Wi-Fi to connect to your home router and this allows you to control the LED strip (colors and state) using an IoT home automation site called Tuya Smart Life. In order to control the lights, you can either use your smartphone or buy a Stream Deck. The Stream Deck gives you push-button control of the light. So, when you start up your meeting or online meetings, you just touch a button on the Stream Deck and your live streaming lights turn on, including your new on-air light.

Configure Wi-Fi LED Strip

The first major hurdle is getting your new Wi-Fi LED Strip connected to your Wi-Fi network at your house. You need to know the network name and password. To configure the LED lights, you have to start with the Tuya Smart Life mobile app on your phone. Download the appropriate app for Android or Apple. A side bonus is that the Tuya Smart Life app supports lots of home automation things you might have around the house. When you are searching around Amazon, make sure in the Q&A or the reviews area to see if the product supports Tuya. If so, you can have everything controlled by one app. Sign up for a new account and then add your LED Strip to your account. Give the LED strip an easy-to-remember name. Admittedly, this might now go very smoothly. I have found that I need to try the process a few times to get the app to detect my lights. If you run into any trouble, make sure that your lights are in pairing mode and that your Wi-Fi access point supports 2.4GHz.

Configure IFTTT

Visit IFTTT.com and sign up for a free account. With a free account, you can create three applets. IFTTT allows you to connect things to other things. In our case, we are eventually going to connect a Stream Deck to the LED strip. A Stream Deck doesn’t normally connect to the LED strip, so we are going to use IFTTT to bridge this gap. Create a new Applet. Under This, add a webhook. Under That, connect the Smart Life service. A webhook is a trigger that the Stream Deck will use to cause a command on the Smart Life platform. In our case, we are going to toggle the state of the LED strip (turn it on if it was off or turn it off if it was on). Note the key and name of the webhook when you create it at IFTTT. You will use this info for your Stream Deck.

Configure Stream Deck

The Stream Deck has a bunch of buttons that you can press to automate your live stream studio, control things while you are streaming, or quickly open apps at a touch. I use my Stream Deck to control PowerPoint while I give presentations and webinars.

Within the Stream Deck software, open Store. This will list all of the integrations that are possible. Search for IFTTT. Install the plugin. Drag the custom button to a new button your Stream Deck and configure it with the name of the applet and key from the IFTTT website. I grabbed an image of an On Air light from Google Images and added it as a custom icon.

Experience

I have been using this configuration for about a year and it has worked every time. Right before, I start a live stream event, I tough the Stream Deck and my On Air light comes on a few seconds later. Stream Deck also supports events that cause many things to happen with one button press. You could add this IFTTT event to a list of other events that happen all at once. We didn’t have to code anything to make this LED controller but it is a little complicated to configure. And, every part of the system is not well documented out there. This is truly for the maker, but you can get it going if you persist. Now that you know about this general workflow, you can control anything during your live streams. Maybe, you have a light turn on in the background when you get a new sub. Let me know what you build with this!

I recently was looking around my game room for some inspiration for a quick project. I have a custom arcade cabinet based on RetroPie running on a Raspberry Pi attached to a smart TV. It has been a lot of fun playing my video games from 30+ years ago. My project this time was to add a custom acrylic sign with an RGB backlight. I wanted the cabinet to look more like an actual arcade cabinet.

My go-to site for graphic printing is Signs.com. I have used it many times for upgrading Arkham Horror: The Card Game and for other projects around the house. I designed a sign using Adobe Illustrator and got it made out of acrylic. I cobbled together vector logos of many of my favorite systems plus the RetroPie logo and named the arcade cabinet, “The Scharcade”. See what I did there? Do you see it?

I used an RGB Led Strip with IR Remote Control as a backlight for the sign and to edge light the TV screen. The IR remote is handy to change the color of the lights. Just make sure that you expose the IR receiver on the power supply so you can change the color from the front of the cabinet.

My upgrade to the upgrade was to frost the arcade cabinet sign to make it look better. The original sign was completely transparent and you could see the lights shining through from each one of the LEDs. LEDs love diffusers. To fix this issue, I used Rust-Oleum Frosted Glass Spray Paint on the backside of the sign. I tested out the spray paint on a scrap piece of acrylic. I was really worried about ruining the custom sign. Once I was confident with the results, I went ahead and sprayed one even coat of the paint on the backside of the sign. It takes about 20-30 minutes in order for the paint to activate. I wanted in anticipation for 20 minutes and I gradually saw the clear acrylic turn frosted. I was really happy with the results. The 20 minutes felt light an eternity.

Along with the rest of the world, I have been working at home for the past couple of weeks. All of my meetings are now online/virtual ones and we use Microsoft Teams and Zoom. We also use video to better facilitate a connection and help us focus on the meeting. The camera that I have doesn’t have a light indicator showing whether it is in use. So, I put two and two together and come up with a remote controllable ‘On Air’ light for online meetings. It was the perfect project to entertain my three-year-old for a few hours. He was delighted every time the light turned on.

George and I ripped apart a Sunbeam Touch Light that I got for $1 in a surplus sale (you can use a Wi-Fi LED Strip). This light had a strip of LEDs, a controller, and a power supply. I just added an ESP8266 module and connected it to ThingSpeak using my tutorial that I published a few years ago. I wrote a little Visual Basic.NET script based on a project that I found on CodeGuru to detect whether or not the webcam was in use or not. If it’s in use, the script sends a signal to ThingSpeak to turn on the light.

Update – February 2021 – Python Script for Webcam State Detection

I have been getting requests for the code to detect my webcam usage. I did have a cobbled-together Visual Basic script that detected if my camera is in use or not and set the state of my On Air light accordingly. This approach was not very accessible, so I rewrote this in Python using OpenCV. Just run this code on a periodic basis to track the state of your webcam.

The code to track my webcam state and upload the state to ThingSpeak is now available on GitHub.

Most of the magic is here:

def returnWebcamStatus(webcamIndex):

    webcam = cv2.VideoCapture(webcamIndex, cv2.CAP_DSHOW)

    if webcam.isOpened():
        webcam.release()
        return True #Webcam not in use
    else:
        return False #Webcam in use

Update – August 2021 – No Code On-Air Light

I have been getting requests for a no-code version of my On Air light. Well, I have created a new tutorial that only requires some configuration instead of programming. This option uses a Wi-Fi LED Strip and a Stream Deck controller.

Check out the tutorial: No Code: On Air Light Controller For Live Streaming and Online Meetings.

Update – January 2023 – Easier DIY On Air Light

I got lots of comments on questions about my On Air light project. I realize that it was a little too DIY. I used parts that I had and it was not easy for others to reproduce. I just updated the project to be based on parts that you can get from Amazon or somewhere else pretty easily. I also took away the need for soldering by using a screw terminal board. I think more people will be able to build their own On Air Status Light for Teams or Zoom.

How to use MQTT

Connect your device to mqtt.cheerlights.com:1883 and subscribe to the “cheerlights” topic. When the CheerLights color changes, the color name will be streamed to your device. You no longer have to poll for the latest CheerLights color on the ThingSpeak API.

Here are the valid color names:

• red (#FF0000)
• green (#008000)
• blue (#0000FF)
• cyan (#00FFFF)
• white (#FFFFFF)
• oldlace / warmwhite (#FDF5E6)
• purple (#800080)
• magenta (#FF00FF)
• yellow (#FFFF00)
• orange (#FFA500)
• pink (#FFC0CB)

Check out the CheerLights API documentation for more detail.

Star Wars R2D2 Lamp on Twitch

This news is just in time for an R2D2 Lamp live streaming on Twitch.

For this Instructable, you will need an installed copy of EAGLE and a PCB Layout that you want to add some graphics to. I am using SparkFun’s FT232RL USB-to-Serial Breakout PCB (EAGLE Files) for example purposes.

You can visit Stephen’s Myers “Cygnet Engineering” blog, at cygnetengineering.blogspot.com.