What changed

• Video channels. Drop video files in a folder and point a channel at it. My folder of 90s commercials is now channel 2, for example.
• A broadcast clock. Channels air whether you’re watching or not. Tune away, tune back, and you land mid-program.
• Scheduled hours. Cartoons can keep Saturday-morning hours. Off the air, the channel shows a test card with the resume time, color bars, or static.
• A tuner. Change channels with arrow keys, a USB gamepad, or an HTTP request. Every change cuts through a moment of tuner static and shows a channel banner.
• A demo channel. node channels/fetch-demo-channel.js downloads eight public-domain films from the Internet Archive’s Prelinger collection. Duck and Cover, Design for Dreaming, One Got Fat. A working channel in one command.
• The control room. A Channels panel with a folder picker, a schedule editor, and a week grid of your on-air windows.

The broadcast clock

A normal media player has a play state: what’s playing, where you paused, what’s next. A cable channel has none of that. Its position is a pure function of the wall clock: given the playlist and the time of day, the channel knows exactly what should be on the air and how far into it we are.

That means there is nothing to save and nothing to resume. Tune to channel 2 at 9:14 and you join a commercial already in progress, like TV that doesn’t wait for you.

I changed channels with an Atari joystick

The tuner reads NES-style D-pad buttons and the analog axis, so when I plugged in a single-button Atari USB stick, up and down worked on the first try. A 1977-style controller changing channels on a 1987 television driven by a modern Raspberry Pi. The input doesn’t care what you use: anything that can press a key, close a GPIO pin, or POST to /api/tune is a remote control.

My CABLE 82 network has a channel dedicated to 80s commercials, 90s commercials, retro movies, Beavis and Butthead, music videos, Transformers, Saturday morning cartoons, and the community bulletin board. I have been busy copying old VHS tapes to MP4.

Thermals

Software video decode is the hardest this Pi has ever worked. The bulletin board alone kept the 3 B+ in the high 50s C; continuous video holds it in the low 60s. That trips the 3 B+’s soft temperature cap at 60 C (vcgencmd get_throttled reports 0x80008), which is the chip protecting itself by design – not a power problem, and the picture doesn’t care.

Passive cooling has been fine, but a network that broadcasts around the clock earns a fan. I’m looking at a Raspberry Pi 3 case with a fan and heatsinks. It also comes with a 3A supply with a power switch, but don’t use the power switch. Send a proper shutdown signal to the Raspberry Pi. Older Pi’s can corrupt the SD card.

Get the latest CABLE 82 release

git clone https://github.com/nothans/cable-82
cd cable-82
node server.js

Open the address it prints and you’re on the air with channel 82, the community bulletin board. Run the demo channel fetcher, add it in the control room, and you have a network.

The repo is at github.com/nothans/cable-82. The original build story and the step-by-step tutorial cover the build from a blank SD card to a cable network of your own.

The TV is a Magnavox portable from Facebook Marketplace, a Perfect View from August 1987, the kind with a handle on top, a rod antenna, and a 12V jack so you could watch it in the car.

The Pi is a 3 Model B+, the same board the reader had.

The false start: the original 2012 Pi

My first instinct was to do this on the least capable Pi in the house: the original Model B, board marked “(c)2011.12”, with the 4GB “Debian 6 for Linux” card it came with. Raspberry Pi OS still supports it, which is remarkable for a 2012 computer, and Node.js 20 installs from apt. The server half of CABLE 82 would run fine.

The TV half would not. The original Pi’s chip is ARMv6, and no current browser runs on it. Raspberry Pi dropped Chromium for ARMv6 in 2023; on the current OS it prints “This hardware doesn’t support NEON SIMD extensions” and quits. Firefox is built for ARMv7 and dies the same way. The one engine left is WebKit, with no JavaScript JIT, on a 700MHz core. I looked at that path for a while… and decided the tutorial should be about the channel, not about heroics.

What you need

• Raspberry Pi 3 Model B+ (or any Pi 2 or newer; a Pi 4 is a fine choice too).
• 16GB or larger microSD card. Mine is a SanDisk Ultra PLUS 16GB.
• Micro-USB power supply, 5V at 2.5A. The 3 B+ is the last micro-USB Pi.
• A network connection. Ethernet is simplest for the first boot; the 3 B+ also has Wi-Fi.
• 4:3 CRT with a coax antenna input. Almost every tube TV has one, which is why this is the path that works for everybody. Mine has nothing else: one F connector marked EXT ANT and a switch to pick it over the built-in rod antenna.
• HDMI-to-RF modulator, the little box that turns HDMI into channel 3 or 4 on the antenna input, plus a short coax cable. Mine is an “HDM61” unit; the same design is sold under a dozen brand names.
• Another computer to flash the card and to SSH into the Pi (needs to be on the same network as the Raspberry Pi).

Step 1: Put the OS on the card

Which image, and why

Raspberry Pi OS (64-bit), the desktop edition. It is the image Raspberry Pi’s own kiosk tutorial tells you to use, and there are two practical reasons to follow that advice on a 3 B+:

1. Chromium is the browser that will show the channel, and the 64-bit build is the one that has been solid on Pi 3 boards (the 32-bit build had a will-not-start bug on the Pi 3 as recently as this summer).
2. Node.js 22 from NodeSource is 64-bit only now; their installer refuses 32-bit outright.

The image is a 1.3GB download and takes about 6GB on the card, so 16GB leaves plenty of room.

Flash it with Raspberry Pi Imager

Raspberry Pi Imager is the right tool here, and not balenaEtcher or dd, because it can bake the hostname, your user, and SSH into the card before the Pi ever boots. That is what makes the headless setup work. Install it from raspberrypi.com/software, put the card in your computer, and walk the steps down the left side.

Device: Raspberry Pi 3. This filters the OS list to images that run on the 3 family (A+, B, B+, and Compute Module 3).

OS: Raspberry Pi OS (64-bit). The top entry, marked Recommended. Not the 32-bit one and not the “Legacy” one; Legacy is the older Bookworm release.

Storage: the SD card. Imager hides your system drives by default, so the only thing in the list should be the card. Mine shows up as a 14.8GB “Generic MassStorageClass USB Device” because it is in a USB reader; a 16GB card really is about 14.8GB once you count the way computers count.

Customisation. This is the part Etcher cannot do, and the reason the Pi will come up on the network with no screen attached.

• Hostname: cable82. That gives you cable82.local later, so you never have to go looking for an IP address.
• Localisation: your time zone and keyboard layout. The clock on the channel runs off the Pi’s time zone, so get this right.
• User: a username and password you will remember. You will type them into SSH in a few minutes.
• Wi-Fi: your network name and password. I set it even though the Pi would be on Ethernet for the build; it means the finished TV can live anywhere in the house.
• Remote access: enable SSH, password authentication. I also left Raspberry Pi Connect on, which gives you a browser-based remote shell to the Pi from anywhere, handy for a TV that lives in a corner.

Then Write. Imager asks once more whether it can erase the card, downloads the image, writes it, and verifies it. The write was the slow part: this card takes data at about 10MB/s, so the 6GB image plus verification took about fifteen minutes.

First boot

Imager ejects the card when it is done. Card into the Pi, Ethernet in, power in. The green light flickers for a while: the first boot resizes the filesystem to fill the card, generates SSH keys, and runs a one-time setup pass. Mine answered on the network in well under two minutes. Then from your computer:

ssh yourname@cable82.local

(If .local does not resolve on your machine, your router’s device list will show a cable82 with an IP address; SSH to that instead.)

Three things to check while you are in:

head -2 /etc/os-release
free -m
df -h /

Mine came back Debian 13 (trixie), 905MB of memory with about 570MB available, and a 15GB root partition with 8.4GB free after the 6GB image. The Pi had been up eight minutes by the time I got around to asking. Then bring the image current:

sudo apt update && sudo apt full-upgrade -y

(sudo asks for your password; recent Raspberry Pi OS releases turned off passwordless sudo by default.)

The Pi is on the network, current, and answering SSH.

Step 2: Node.js

CABLE 82 is a Node.js app with no dependencies, so Node is the only thing to install. It needs Node 18 or newer, and a fresh Raspberry Pi OS has none at all:

$ node -v
bash: node: command not found

That line, by the way, is almost certainly what was behind the reader’s “localhost refused to connect.” No Node, no server, nothing listening, and the browser reports it as a refused connection.

Two ways to get Node on a 64-bit Pi. The quick one is the distro’s own package, sudo apt install nodejs, which gives you Node 20. I went with NodeSource for Node 22, the current long-term-support line, and it is two commands:

curl -fsSL https://deb.nodesource.com/setup_22.x | sudo -E bash -
sudo apt-get install -y nodejs
node -v

Mine printed v22.23.2. (NodeSource only builds for 64-bit now; if you flashed the 32-bit image, use the apt route.)

Step 3: CABLE 82 on the air

With Node in place, the channel itself is next. Clone it and start it:

cd ~
git clone https://github.com/nothans/cable-82
cd cable-82
node server.js

It prints every address it answers on:

CABLE 82 broadcasting
  http://localhost:1982   (a browser on this machine)
  http://192.168.68.93:1982   (a browser on another device on your network)
Control room: http://localhost:1982/config

Read that second line carefully, because it is the other half of the reader’s problem. localhost means “this machine.” Typed into a browser on your laptop, it asks the laptop for a channel it does not have. The 192.168.x.x address is the Pi as seen from everywhere else on your network, and that is the one to open from the laptop. I did, and the channel was there: blue screen, the clock, the crawl.

The first run also writes a config.json next to the server, which is where everything you change in the control room ends up. Open http://192.168.68.93:1982/config from the laptop and make it yours: channel name, your messages, your feeds, your town for the weather. Save, and the channel picks it up within about twenty seconds.

Make it a service

Ctrl-C the server and hand it to systemd so it runs at boot and restarts if it ever dies. Create /etc/systemd/system/cable82.service:

[Unit]
Description=CABLE 82
After=network-online.target

[Service]
ExecStart=/usr/bin/node /home/cable82/cable-82/server.js
Restart=always
User=cable82

[Install]
WantedBy=multi-user.target

Both cable82s are my username; use yours (whoami tells you, and which node confirms the path on the ExecStart line). Then:

sudo systemctl enable --now cable82
systemctl status cable82

active (running) with the broadcasting lines in its log, and sudo journalctl -u cable82 -f is where to look if anything is ever wrong. The server sits at about 46MB of memory.

Step 4: Chromium in kiosk mode

The desktop image already logs in automatically and starts a Wayland session (the compositor is called labwc; the old LXDE desktop from earlier Pi OS releases is gone). Chromium 151 is preinstalled. All we have to do is tell the session to open Chromium full screen on the channel at login.

The file for that is ~/.config/labwc/autostart. Create it with these lines:

# CABLE 82 kiosk: wait for the channel server, then put Chromium on it full screen.
until curl -s -o /dev/null http://localhost:1982; do sleep 1; done
/usr/bin/lwrespawn /usr/bin/chromium http://localhost:1982   --kiosk --noerrdialogs --disable-infobars --no-first-run --no-memcheck   --disable-lcd-text --autoplay-policy=no-user-gesture-required   --enable-features=OverlayScrollbar --password-store=basic --start-maximized &

A few of those deserve a word:

• The until curl loop waits for the server to answer before launching the browser. Without it, Chromium can win the race at boot and show “localhost refused to connect” on the TV, and nothing ever tells it to try again.
• lwrespawn is a Raspberry Pi helper that restarts a program if it dies, so a crash brings the channel back instead of leaving a blank desktop.
• --no-memcheck stops Chromium from popping a low-memory warning over the channel on a 1GB board.
• --autoplay-policy=no-user-gesture-required lets the background music start without anyone clicking.
• --disable-lcd-text turns off subpixel font smoothing so the chunky text stays crisp white instead of going pink at the edges.
• --password-store=basic keeps the desktop keyring from asking for a password at login.

Then turn off screen blanking, or the TV goes dark after ten minutes:

sudo raspi-config nonint do_blanking 1

(Or interactively: sudo raspi-config > Display Options > Screen Blanking > No.)

If you are here from the original post: the chromium-browser --kiosk line and the /etc/xdg/lxsession/LXDE-pi/autostart file in that post were for the previous Pi OS release. On Trixie the binary is chromium and the file is the labwc one above.

Reboot. About a minute later Chromium was running full screen on the channel. I could tell from the laptop before the TV was even connected:

$ pgrep -a chromium | head -1
1407 /usr/lib/chromium/chromium ... --kiosk ... http://localhost:1982

Check the power supply while you are here

This section wasn’t what I expected. My first run was off a phone charger…

$ vcgencmd get_throttled
throttled=0xd0005
$ vcgencmd measure_clock arm
frequency(48)=600064000

Any bit set in get_throttled is a complaint; 0x5 means under-voltage and throttling right now, and the clock line shows a 1.4GHz Pi running at 600MHz. It worked, in the sense that the channel was on, but at less than half speed. With a proper 5V 2.5A supply the under-voltage bits cleared and the clock came back up. If you only run one check from this whole post on an existing Pi, run that one.

(On a 3 B+ you may still see 0x80008 with a 1.2GHz clock: that is the board’s own soft temperature limit at 60C, normal with Chromium running, and nothing to do with power.)

Step 5: The CRT

Note on photos of the TV… it turns out to be surprisingly hard to get a good photo of the screen. My phone didn’t capture it well. Also, the screen had a giant smudge backed into the acrylic covering the TV. I had to use Novus 2 polish to clean up the smudge and scratches. I assure you that it looks better in person…

The Magnavox has exactly one way in: an F connector marked EXT ANT.

So the path is HDMI out of the Pi into a small HDMI-to-RF modulator, coax from the modulator into the TV, and the TV tuned to channel 3. The box is the size of a cassette tape, takes USB power, has a CH3/CH4 switch, and its spec sheet says everything you need to know: NTSC out, 480p to 1080p in, sound on the 4.5MHz carrier (that means mono, the way 1982 did it).

Plug it all in and the channel was on the tube.

Send it a 4:3 picture

The box scales whatever it gets to fill the 4:3 tube. CABLE 82 draws a 4:3 stage, so if the Pi sends a widescreen mode, the stage gets squashed. The Pi has to output 640×480. On current Raspberry Pi OS the old hdmi_group and hdmi_mode lines in config.txt are dead; the kernel takes its orders from cmdline.txt, and the desktop then picks its own mode on top of that. So it takes two small files.

Append to the end of the single long line in /boot/firmware/cmdline.txt:

video=HDMI-A-1:640x480@60D vc4.force_hotplug=1

The D forces the output on even when nothing answers, and force_hotplug keeps it on if the modulator never raises the hotplug pin (mine does not). Then pin the desktop to the same mode in ~/.config/kanshi/config:

profile crt {
  output HDMI-A-1 mode 640x480 position 0,0
}

Without that second file, the desktop on my Pi happily chose 1024×768 on top of the kernel’s 640×480.

Give it an EDID, so there is sound

The first picture had no audio, and the reason is a good one: cheap modulators send no EDID, the little data block a screen uses to introduce itself. No EDID means the Pi does not know the “screen” can hear, and it refuses to send HDMI audio at all. So I made it one. The CABLE 82 repo now ships a 256-byte EDID that describes a 640×480 4:3 screen with stereo audio (edid/cable82-640x480-audio.bin, with the script that generates it). Hand it to the kernel:

sudo mkdir -p /lib/firmware/edid
sudo cp ~/cable-82/edid/cable82-640x480-audio.bin /lib/firmware/edid/cable82.bin

and add one more parameter to that same cmdline.txt line:

drm.edid_firmware=HDMI-A-1:edid/cable82.bin

Reboot. wpctl status now lists an HDMI sink next to the headphone jack; make it the default and give it some level (WirePlumber remembers):

wpctl status                       # find the "(HDMI)" sink's number
wpctl set-default <number>
wpctl set-volume <number> 0.8

The channel’s music came out of the Magnavox’s speaker on the next page turn.

Hide the cursor

A mouse pointer sat in the middle of the picture with no mouse attached. The HDMI CEC input counts as a pointer device, so the desktop draws one. The fix is a labwc keybinding that hides it, pressed automatically after boot. Copy /etc/xdg/labwc/rc.xml to ~/.config/labwc/rc.xml, add inside <keyboard>:

<keybind key="A-W-h"><action name="HideCursor"/></keybind>

then sudo apt install wtype and add to the end of ~/.config/labwc/autostart:

(sleep 10; wtype -M alt -M logo -P h -p h -m logo -m alt) &

The detour: composite

Before the HDMI modulator arrived I tried the other way in: the Pi’s 3.5mm AV jack, a 4-pole cable to yellow/red/white, and an old composite-to-RF adapter. On a Pi 3 that means sudo raspi-config nonint do_composite 0, which turns HDMI off; on every Pi before the 5 it is one or the other. The Wayland desktop also does not trust the composite connector until it is told the mode, so video=Composite-1:720x480@60ie,tv_mode=NTSC goes on the cmdline.txt line too.

Step 6: Make it readable

With everything working, the verdict on a 9-inch 1987 tube over RF: the big clock and the crawl read fine, the small text was marginal, and the red and blue pages were worse than the cyan one. That is NTSC. It smears saturated color, it clips pure white (broadcast engineers kept white at 90% for a reason), and the hard drop shadow under every character turned into ringing.

So I added a CRT set of settings in the control room for much older TVs…

• CRT mode swaps in a softer palette (less saturated backgrounds, 90% white) and drops the drop shadow.
• Text size enlarges the body text, kicker, crawl, and the small header lines, from 1 to 1.5x. I run 1.25 on this set; the big clock stays as it is.
• Overscan safe margin was already there; raise it if the TV crops the edges.

Turning text size up found one more thing: at 640×480 the weather card no longer fit and its HI/LO line slid under the crawl.

So pages now fit themselves: if the content would overflow, the weather card gives up its sunrise/sunset line first, then shrinks just enough, and a long fact does the same.

All of that is in the repo as of this post.

What changed because of this build

Three things fed straight back into the project:

• The original post now carries a dated update: the kiosk command is chromium in ~/.config/labwc/autostart on current Raspberry Pi OS, and the power supply got the mention it earned.
• The repo README was rewritten from this build, step by step as tested, with a Troubleshooting section keyed to the exact errors from the comment thread.
• CABLE 82 itself gained CRT mode, the text size setting, the fit-to-page behavior, and the shipped EDID, because a real 1987 tube demanded all four.

That is the part I did not expect when a reader said “localhost refused to connect”: the failure report turned into the best test pass the project ever had!

A channel of your own

The Magnavox sits there now, tuned to channel 3, being a channel. The clock, the bake-sale energy, the crawl, the beautiful-music bed coming out of a mono speaker that was built when the music was new. It is a thirty-nine-year-old TV showing a channel that stopped existing before the TV was built, fed by a computer the size of a deck of cards, and the whole thing works because somebody left a comment saying it did not.

So: if you build one and it refuses to connect, say so. That is how this channel gets better, and it is very 1982 of you. Thanks.

What you need

Any of the big three AI chatbots, all of which have free tiers:

• ChatGPT
• Claude
• Gemini

They’re all good at this. Wordplay, puns, and pop-culture mashups are the kind of thing these models genuinely enjoy (if models can enjoy things).

The original version of this tutorial pointed to a custom GPT I built for exactly this job. You don’t need it anymore. You don’t need a name-generator website either. The base models got good enough that the wrapper became the long way around, and a plain chat with a decent prompt beats both.

The method

The 2024 version had a warm-up step where you told the AI your objective and asked it to respond OKAY before sending the real prompt. You can skip that now; the models don’t need to be eased into anything anymore. Everything goes in one prompt, and the whole method is three steps:

1. Open a new chat in ChatGPT, Claude, or Gemini.
2. Pick a prompt template below, replace the [BRACKETED] words, and send it.
3. When a direction makes you grin, ask for more: “give me 10 more like #3” works exactly like you’d hope.

The 20 prompt templates

1. Generate 5 funny fantasy football team names based on [PLAYER NAME]’s name or playing style.
2. Create 5 clever fantasy football team names inspired by the [TEAM NAME] and their history or current roster.
3. Come up with 5 witty fantasy football team names centered around [POSITION] players.
4. Blend NFL references with [MOVIE/TV SHOW/BOOK] to create 5 unique fantasy football team names.
5. Generate 5 punny fantasy football team names using football terminology and common phrases.
6. Create 5 alliterative fantasy football team names starting with the letter [LETTER].
7. Combine [CITY/STATE] references with football terms to make 5 locally-themed fantasy team names.
8. Generate 5 playful trash-talking fantasy football team names that imply dominating the competition.
9. Create 5 fantasy football team names that blend [PROFESSION] terminology with football references.
10. Come up with 5 fantasy football team names that incorporate [HOLIDAY/SEASON] themes.
11. Generate 5 appetizing fantasy football team names that combine [FOOD] with player names or football terms.
12. Create 5 fantasy football team names that blend [MUSIC GENRE/ARTIST] references with NFL players or teams.
13. Combine names of [HISTORICAL ERA] figures with football terminology to create 5 unique team names.
14. Generate 5 epic fantasy football team names inspired by [MYTHOLOGY] and NFL players or terms.
15. Create 5 geeky fantasy football team names that combine [SCIENTIFIC FIELD/TECH COMPANY] with NFL references.
16. Come up with 5 colorful fantasy football team names incorporating [COLOR] and player names or football terms.
17. Generate 5 wild fantasy football team names that blend [ANIMAL SPECIES] characteristics with NFL players or terms.
18. Create 5 electrifying fantasy football team names inspired by [WEATHER EVENT] and football references.
19. Blend elements from [FICTIONAL WORLD/UNIVERSE] with NFL references to create 5 fantastical fantasy football team names.
20. Generate 5 multi-sport fantasy football team names that combine NFL references with terms from [OTHER SPORT].

An example

My go-to demo is template #4: “Blend NFL references with Deadpool to create 5 unique fantasy football team names.” The best result it ever gave me is still Mercs with a Mouthguard, riffing on Deadpool being the Merc with a Mouth in the comics. That one made the jump to a real league.

The new trick: make it about your league

This is the part that didn’t exist in the original tutorial. A name-generator website hands everyone the same list. The AI can work with your league specifically. Paste in your context along with the template:

Here are the other team names in my league: [PASTE THE LIST]. I finished [YOUR FINISH] last season, and I just drafted [YOUR KEY PLAYERS]. Generate 5 fantasy football team names that fit this league and gently roast my rivals.

Names that reference your buddy’s decade-long championship drought hit different than anything a template can produce. This also works for the sadder traditions: ask for last-place punishment team names and it delivers those too.

Bonus: generate a logo

In 2024 this step required a separate image tool. Now ChatGPT and Gemini generate images right in the chat, so once you’ve picked your name, keep going:

Create a fantasy football team logo for “[YOUR TEAM NAME]”: bold, cartoon mascot style, sized for a league avatar.

Ask for two or three style variations and pick the one that looks best at thumbnail size, because that’s the only size your league will ever see it.

The name is the only part of your season you have full control over…

Appendix: 100 names that survived the cull

One more thing, since the whole post is about the method: I ran it on itself. A few hundred generated names across ten different template directions, then a hard cull of anything that sounded like it shipped with a default league. These 100 survived, each with the recipe behind it so you can find your player or your favorite reference. Steal freely; your league never has to know.

Quarterback puns

Running back puns

Pass catcher puns

Movie and TV mashups

Music mashups

Science and tech

AI-era names

Myth, history, and literature

Group chat trash talk

Deep cuts and current events

That problem I had hasn’t changed, but the best answer has. Live Server went years without maintenance, and in early 2026 a critical security vulnerability in its dev server was publicly disclosed before it finally got a patch. Meanwhile, Microsoft now ships a first-party extension that does the same job: Live Preview. Same right-click workflow, actively maintained, and it’s what I use now.

Why you need a local server at all

Open an HTML file from disk and the browser loads it with a file:// address. That works right up until your page tries to fetch a file, load a JavaScript module, or play audio. Then the browser blocks it, for security reasons. Your code isn’t broken; it just needs to be served over HTTP like a real website. A local development server does exactly that, on your own machine, at an address like http://127.0.0.1:3000.

The quick answer: Live Preview

Live Preview is Microsoft’s extension for exactly this.

1. Open the Extensions panel (Ctrl+Shift+X), search for Live Preview by Microsoft, and install it.
2. Open your HTML file.
3. Right-click in the editor and choose Show Preview.

You get a live browser panel right inside VS Code, and it refreshes automatically as you type. When you want the full browser experience (developer tools, real window size), use Show Preview in External Browser instead, or just open the http://127.0.0.1:3000 address it prints.

What happened to Live Server

The original version of this post recommended the Live Server extension by Ritwick Dey, and 80 million installs say I wasn’t alone. It still works, and the workflow is nearly identical: right-click the file, Open with Live Server, or hit the Go Live button in the status bar.

But the extension went years without maintenance, and in February 2026 a critical vulnerability (CVE-2025-65717) was publicly disclosed: visit the wrong webpage while Live Server is running, and that page can quietly pull files off your machine through the extension’s local server. Source code, config files, .env secrets, whatever the server can reach. Security researchers had been trying to reach the maintainer since mid-2025; the patch (version 5.7.10) landed only after the story went public. If you have Live Server installed, make sure it’s updated to 5.7.10 or later. Better yet, switch.

No extension at all

If you’d rather not install anything, you already have a server or two on your machine:

# Node
npx serve

# Python
python -m http.server 8000

Run either one in your project folder and open the address it prints. You lose the auto-refresh, but for a quick test it’s hard to beat.

Debugging

Once the page is served, the browser’s developer tools (F12 or Ctrl+Shift+I) work exactly as you’d expect: console, breakpoints, network tab, the works.

The original post suggested installing the “Debugger for Chrome” extension to debug from inside VS Code. You don’t need it anymore; JavaScript debugging is built into VS Code now. Create a launch.json with a chrome or msedge configuration pointed at your local server URL, hit F5, and set breakpoints right in the editor.

The game, by the way

Shoot shipped with sound! Play it here: https://shoot.nothans.com/

As soon I as I heard that there would be a surpsise reveal of the new pinball machine, I wanted to try it. It was in the Crawl Con room by Rengade Games in the Indiana Convention Center.

What is Dungeon Crawling Carl?

Well, you are about to hear about it from everyone you know. Buckle up.

Dungeon Crawler Carl is a wildly popular LitRPG series by Matt Dinniman that kicks off with a guy named Carl running outside in nothing but his boxers, a leather jacket, and his ex-girlfriend’s tight pink Crocs to catch her prized tortoiseshell Persian cat, Princess Donut. That wardrobe choice saves their lives: seconds later, aliens flatten every building on Earth, killing everyone indoors.

The survivors are herded into a colossal underground dungeon and forced to fight their way down floor by floor. The entire death trap is broadcast across the universe as a massive reality show, meaning sponsors, fan popularity, and audience bloodlust dictate who lives or dies. Carl teams up with Donut, who gains human speech and immediately weaponizes her pampered show-cat ego to manipulate the galactic viewers. Meanwhile, the dungeon’s AI develops a weird, sadistic foot fetish and actively refuses to give Carl decent lower-body armor, forcing him to fight off monsters while basically half-naked.

Because it’s LitRPG, the story includes video game mechanics like stat screens, loot drops, and system notifications. But it works perfectly as both a genuinely tense survival story and a hilarious, deeply angry satire about corporate greed and the entertainment industry. If you get into it, I recommend the audiobook. They are narrated and voiced by Jeff Hays. His performance is so good.

What is Dungeon Crawler Carl Pinball?

Dungeon Crawler Carl is a pinball machine based on the Dungeon Crawler Carl book series, written by Matt Dinniman. You play as Carl, accompanied by Princess Donut, navigating the various dungeon levels and all of the dangers and challenges it presents. Fighting mobs, battle bosses, cast spells, build your viewer count, collect friends, and figure out how to not just survive in the dungeon, but also how to get vengeance! Every aspect of the game combines to immerse you into the story. This includes a host of thematically integrated interactive mechanisms, an audio experience led by Jeff Hays voicing all of the characters, new artwork from Luciano Fleitas, Brad Albright, as well as other Dungeon Crawler Carl artwork shared by Renegade Game Studios, and game rules that connect you with all of the major events and plotlines and many of the minor plotlines as well.

After getting a chance to see the surprise reveal of the game, I got my own surprise. Matt came out to hang with the pinball players and talk about the weather… I MEAN DUNGEON CRAWLER CARL. Matt kicked off something bizarae and sweeping. Like I said, buckle up!

On my journey, I met Tasker Smith. Right from the start, Tasker had a unique point of view about pinball and life. He didn’t slam the machine, but he also had feelings about getting better. He turned failures into lessons and was always awesome to play with. Then, he says he is writing a book. And, a very Tasker thing to do is to actually write a little bit a time and couple of years go by you have a book, then it is is getting published, then he is on a book tour.

Pinball: A Quest for Mastery is about pinball, but it is also philosophy. The book is not about being a master at pinball; it is about being on the quest. The book shares history, demystifies rule complexity, gives you a primer for understanding the game, and what it takes to get better and why. I feel Tasker just shares a user manual with us on how to approach any hobby or pursuit.

I recommend the book for players of all skill levels. I find myself opening the book, flipping to a section, and learning something interesting no matter where I read. This also echoes one of Tasker’s viewpoints: take every moment to learn, get better, and make your own luck. The book is filled with advice and resources. The book doesn’t leave you feeling alone. I thoroughly enjoyed the read!

Go to your friendly local bookstore and pick up a copy.

Congrats, Tasker!

The results are gorgeous! I learned a lot and will share more of the details when I get time. You can follow the live build here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/atari-superman-playfield-wall-art

Inserts and Plastics

When I got the playfield home, I realized that I didn’t have the complete playfield. I only had the wood and the printed art. Every insert, plastic piece, and post was removed. The original owner was planning a playfield restoration and had stopped at some point. The artwork was touched up and looked beautiful, but probably would not work for playing pinball on it. The inserts were going to be important since my goal was to place an LED behind them to make them glow.

I put out a post on Pinside looking for any old parts for the Atari Superman Pinball and got a few bites.

Soon enough, I got the original parts for this exact playfield. I got to meet up with the pinhead that donated the playfield to the museum. We chatted for hours about 70s and 80s pinball, swapped stories, and made a community connection. It was surreal to find the original owner, but the pinball community is a small niche hobby.

I also found the original Superman plafield plastic pieces. They shined right up with Novus Plastic Polish. The Novus cleaning products are a must if you work on pinball machines.

To mount the plastic pieces on the playfield, you need post mounts and post stud screws. The mounts were easy to find, but the stud screws were a challenge. New ones were about a dollar each. So, this didn’t scale well. I needed like 60 of them, so if my math is right, that’s $60. I turned to eBay and found someone selling “pounds of old pinball parts”. This came in at $90! Look at the savings. Somehow, I felt better about buying old used parts than buying new ones at a lower price… and in the process, I got a bunch of rusty parts I didn’t even need.

My old screw bucket was not happy that I bought someone else’s old screw bucket and didn’t even consult it.

Mounting all of the playfield parts took a lot of time, but you just do one at a time. I have a new respect for anyone who designs these things. 70s pinball was so much simpler than modern pinball machines, and it was still a lot of parts to track.

Flippers

I wanted to complete the top side of the playfield with flippers. So, I took old flippers from my Strikes and Spares pinball machine and cut them down for this build. Again, this will be wall-mounted, so you can’t have things sticking out too far in the back. They needed to be modded, and Dremel came to the rescue. Shooting a 6-foot stream of sparks across the room.

LED Control and CheerLights

Of course, it is connected to the CheerLights project. This was going to happen 100% of the time whenever I connected 150 LEDs to something. I used WS2811 bullet-style LEDs that you can control one at a time. They fit perfectly in the 12.5mm general illumination holes in the playfield. I used a WLED controller and a 3A power supply to control the colors, animations, and synchronization with the CheerLights MQTT server.

The insert near the flippers stays in sync with the latest CheerLights color while the rest of the inserts can have their own color or visual effects.

Out of the box, the best animation effect was Stream 2. This very much looks like an attract mode on a pinball machine.

3D Models

Part of the project was making my first 3D model to have the original pop bumpers mounted above the playfield but not connected to the original mechanism. Since this is wall art, I can’t have a mechanism sticking out 7 inches on the back. I also could not find the old-style pop bumpers on Maker World, so I designed my own… ish. Meaning it is not a pop bumper for function, it is a pop bumper to take light from an LED and let it shine through. I just published my first model!

For other parts needed, I found a person on Pinside who created a system called PinGlow. They were way ahead of me and had thought through the kind of stuff you are going to need for a wall art project like mine. They offer drop targets, stand-up targets, wall mounting kits, and even LEDs. I reached out to them on Pinside, and they offered to make a custom version of their drop targets specifically for the Atari Pinball machine. These drop targets had the Superman logo on them.

Project Demo

You might know the one if you watched MTV when it first came on cable. A flat blue screen, chunky white text, the time and the temperature in the corner. The Lions Club pancake breakfast. A birthday wish for someone named STEVE. Little League signups at the rec center. Headlines crawling along the bottom while a Muzak version of a song you almost recognized played underneath. I remember watching it for long stretches, waiting for the flea market notice to come back around. Our Sears CRT had the blue bars burnt in.

At some point, the Cable Bulletin Board Channel disappeared from all of our lives. NOBODY IS TALKING ABOUT IT.

Recently, I have been spending evenings learning about retro gaming and reading posts on Reddit saying that you have to game on a CRT for the proper gaming experience. This led me to Facebook Marketplace. After a few weeks of looking at photos of TVs this got me remembering the big honker in our living room… then, I uncovered a repressed memory. I had to have it back in my life.

Meet CABLE 82

CABLE 82 is a tiny web app that turns any screen into your own 1982 community bulletin board channel. Ideally that screen is an old 4:3 CRT fed by a Raspberry Pi, sitting in the corner of a room, being ambient.

It scrolls the date and time, your community messages, fun facts, dad jokes, live weather, and headlines from whatever RSS feeds you point it at. There is a crawl along the bottom, a red LATEST flag, and a little station bug in the corner, because of course there is.

You make it yours in a control room in the browser, or by editing one plain config file. It is free and open source and it runs on a Raspberry Pi.

The rest of this post is how to get it going on a Raspberry Pi and a CRT.

Step 1: Get it on the air

SSH into the Pi, or just open a terminal on it, and run:

git clone https://github.com/nothans/cable-82
cd cable-82
node server.js

Open http://localhost:1982 in a browser on the Pi. You’re on the air.

Out of the box it already looks right: the blue screens, the clock, a couple of example bake-sale messages, and real headlines pulled from a few default feeds.

Step 2: Make it your channel

Everything about the channel lives in one place. Open the control room at http://localhost:1982/config and you get the whole thing on one screen: the name, your community messages, which RSS feeds to pull, your town’s weather, the colors, the page lineup. Change something, hit Save, and the channel updates itself within about twenty seconds. Nobody has to touch the TV.

If you would rather edit a file, it all lives in config.json, and you can hand-edit that just as happily. Put your own town in the weather. Drop in the feeds you actually read. Write the messages your household needs to see, which in my house is mostly reminders that trash day is tomorrow.

Step 3: Run it on boot

You do not want to SSH in and start a server every time the power blips. Make it a service so the Pi just comes up broadcasting.

Create /etc/systemd/system/cable82.service:

[Unit]
Description=CABLE 82
After=network-online.target

[Service]
ExecStart=/usr/bin/node /home/pi/cable-82/server.js
Restart=always
User=pi

[Install]
WantedBy=multi-user.target

Then turn it on:

sudo systemctl enable --now cable82

Now the channel is always running in the background, whether anything is looking at it or not.

Step 4: Point a browser at it, full screen

Have the Pi launch Chromium in kiosk mode, pointed at the channel:

chromium-browser --kiosk --noerrdialogs --disable-infobars \
  --disable-lcd-text \
  --autoplay-policy=no-user-gesture-required \
  http://localhost:1982

Two of those flags earn their keep. --disable-lcd-text turns off subpixel font smoothing, which otherwise tints the chunky white text a faint pink on some screens. --autoplay-policy=no-user-gesture-required lets the background music start on its own at boot, so nobody has to click anything to get the beautiful-music bed going.

While you are in there, turn off screen blanking so the picture never sleeps: sudo raspi-config > Display Options > Screen Blanking > No.

Step 5: Get it onto a real CRT

The easiest and most reliable hookup works on any Pi and any TV with a coax (antenna) input. Run HDMI from the Pi into an HDMI-to-coax RF modulator, then run coax from the modulator into the TV, and tune the TV to channel 3 or 4. Your Pi is now a broadcast channel and the TV is receiving it over the air the way God and 1982 intended.

If the TV crops the edges of the picture, bump up the overscan margin in the control room until nothing important gets cut off. There are no fake scanline filters in CABLE 82, on purpose. The CRT is the filter.

Step 6: Give it a soundtrack

Drop a few audio files into the music/ folder and CABLE 82 plays them as a continuous background bed behind the pages, looping the set, shuffling if you like. Two tracks ship with it to get you started. Aim for the sound the old channels actually used: beautiful music, easy listening, and eventually the famous smooth jazz.

A channel of your own

A Pi, an old TV, a coax cable, and a folder of files, and now there is a corner of your house that runs its own quiet little channel: your messages, your weather, your headlines, your dad jokes, scrolling by all day.

It’s not useful, exactly. It’s better than useful.

CABLE 82 is open source and lives at github.com/nothans/cable-82.

Project Demo Video

Watch 6 minutes of glorious community news like it is 1982. Enjoy.

Update July 27, 2026: CheerLights Support

I can’t believe that it took me a few days to do this… CheerLights. A perfect feed (for me) is to see the latest CheerLights color scroll by every once in a while. Okay, so now you can add CheerLights feed support with a custom message if needed.

Update August 22, 2026: Updated GitHub README and better CRT support

Based on some user feedback, I built a version of the project on an older Raspberry Pi and used a much older CRT TV. This helped me find some areas for improvement.

I updated the kiosk command to use chromium (not chromium-browser), and it goes in ~/.config/labwc/autostart.

Old TVs do not have as much contrast as newer ones, so I added a CRT mode to help. This is in the “control room” or in the config.

And, a user reported “throttling” of the CPU. This happens when the Raspberry Pi is underpowered. This usually happens when you use a phone USB charger instead of a Raspberry Pi power supply.

From what I learned during the first month of the project, I added a troubleshooting section to the GitHub README for the CABLE 82 project.

I will publish an end-to-end tutorial for a Raspberry Pi 3 B+ soon to help smooth out the installation steps.

Thanks for sharing your feedback and trying the project. It helps all of us.

What I made

It’s called Gameroom Designer. It lays out your game room to scale, right in the browser. You set your room’s real dimensions, drop in machines at their real footprints, and slide everything around until it works, before you move a single machine.

You can try it here: https://nothans.github.io/gameroom-designer/

How it works

Start by typing your room size in feet (or meters, if that’s your thing). You get a room drawn to scale with a grid.

Then you fill it. There’s a searchable catalog of real stuff at real sizes: pinball (Stern, JJP, the Atari and generic widebodies), arcade uprights and cocktails and sit-down racers, a pool table, air hockey, foosball, shuffleboard, plus couches, bar stools, storage, the works. A 27-inch-wide pinball takes up exactly as much room next to an 84-inch sofa as it would in real life. Click an item to drop it in, or drag it straight onto the floor.

From there it’s the fun part. Drag machines around. Rotate them. Grab a whole row of pinballs, line up their edges, space them out evenly. Drop a dashed “clearance” zone around the pool table so you don’t forget you need five feet to actually swing a cue. Add doors, swing arc and all, so you can see the door won’t clip the cabinet you parked next to it. Zoom out to take in the whole room, use the minimap to get around, and when it looks right, export a PNG to show your partner exactly why the couch has to move.

There are a few example layouts built in, too, if you’d rather poke at a finished room than start from an empty one.

I built it fast, with AI

I built and shipped this fast using Agentic AI.

The interesting part was never “the code got written.” That’s kind of a solved problem now if you’re one person building one thing. The interesting part was the loop. I’d use the tool, hit something that annoyed me, and fix it right then.

Dragging a rotated block sent it flying to the wrong spot, so I fixed the math. Resizing a block didn’t stick, so I fixed that. I shrank my browser window and the whole layout looked like it had wandered off, so I wrote it up as issue #1 and fixed that too. Ideas showed up and went in the same afternoon: circular clearance zones, doors and windows, even spacing, drag-straight-from-the-library. Then a deploy to GitHub Pages, a banner, a little intro video.

None of that is magic. It’s a build-use-fix loop, run tight. The machine is fast at the typing, but knowing what to build next is still the whole job.

Your machine, your data

The whole thing runs in your browser. Your layout saves to your own machine, so there’s no account to make, no server to trust, and nothing leaving your computer. It’s free, and it’s open source under MIT, so the entire thing is on GitHub if you want to poke at it or fork it: https://github.com/nothans/gameroom-designer.

Tell me what’s missing

I just posted it over in the forum to get some real feedback, because I built this for people who have way more machines than I do.

So go break it. Tell me which machine I forgot, which part feels clunky, what you’d add. That’s the fastest way this gets any good.

I was standing in the hardware store holding a dead coin cell, squinting at it, trying to remember if the Lutron dimmer in my hallway takes a CR2032 or one of the other fourteen round silver batteries that all look exactly the same. So I guessed. I bought two of the wrong one. Classic.

Here is the thing about a house. You slowly learn a thousand tiny facts about it. The vent sizes. The filter part numbers. The spa was installed in some year you’ll never remember. The good info is scattered across manuals in a junk drawer, an email from the installer, a photo of a model plate you took and never looked at again. By the time you actually need a fact, it’s gone.

I finally fixed it. Not with an app. With a folder.

The idea I borrowed

Earlier this year Andrej Karpathy posted a little pattern he called an “LLM wiki.” Instead of the usual retrieval setup where you chop documents into chunks and stuff them in a vector database, you just keep a folder of Markdown files that the AI itself writes and maintains. The model builds the connections once, when it learns something, instead of re-deriving them every single time you ask. The internet looked at it and went “wait, it’s just a folder? why did we ever do the other thing.”

Then Google Cloud made it official. On June 12 they published the Open Knowledge Format, or OKF. It’s a tiny, vendor-neutral spec: a directory of Markdown files, one concept per file, a bit of YAML at the top, an index, links between them. No database. No SDK. Readable by a human and by any agent. That’s the whole thing.

So I pointed it at my house. The project is called Abode 101.

What I actually built

Abode 101 is an OKF folder about my home. There’s a file for the Lutron dimmer, one for the swim spa, one for the HVAC vents, one for the smoke alarms. There’s an index.md the AI reads first so it knows where to look. To use it, I don’t open an app. I just talk to it in Claude Code.

you ▸ what's the battery for the Lutron dimmer?
abode ▸ Panasonic CR2032, per the install guide (page 10).

That’s the fact I drove to the store without. Now it’s one question away, and it tells me where it got the answer.

But a folder of files just sitting there is a filing cabinet. The magic is in two things the bare spec leaves out.

Thing one: the loop

OKF standardizes the files. It says nothing about keeping them fresh. Karpathy’s original idea had the AI do the maintaining, and that’s the part I cared about most, so I built it back in as a set of playbooks.

I capture a thing by telling it “I bought X,” or by dropping a manual, a receipt, or a photo of a label into an inbox folder. It reads whatever I throw at it, pulls out the real specs, and files them. Then overnight it does the boring homework I never do. It looks up the filter I just bought, finds the replacement part, figures out how often it needs changing, and adds a reminder. I wake up and my house knows more than it did when I went to bed.

Thing two: it refuses to guess

This is the part I’m proud of. Every exact fact carries its source and a confidence level. A battery type from the manufacturer’s manual is “verified” and it gets cited. A spec from a random Amazon listing is “reported” and ranked lower. And when I ask something it doesn’t actually know, it says so.

you ▸ what size is the kitchen toe-kick vent?
abode ▸ Not recorded. It's marked TODO, needs measuring. I won't guess.

An AI that says “I don’t know” instead of inventing a confident wrong number. For house facts, where the wrong answer means a second trip to the store or a part that doesn’t fit, that refusal is the feature.

I ran a little eval suite over it to make sure. Twenty-one questions, answered cold. It got the exact facts right, with sources, and on the three questions it shouldn’t know, it refused all three. That’s the behavior I want from something I’m going to trust with my house.

Why a folder beats an app

I could have built a slick app with a database. I’m glad I didn’t. The folder is portable, it diffs in version control, it works with any model, and I own it. There’s no service to shut down, no export button I’ll go hunting for in five years. When the next better model comes out, I point it at the same folder and it just works. Try that with your smart-home app from 2014.

Get it

I open-sourced the framework. The structure, the agent instructions, the playbooks, even the eval harness are all in the repo. My actual house data stays on my machine, gitignored, because you do not need to know my spa’s gallon count. You fork it and fill it with your own home.

→ github.com/nothans/abode101

Go give your house a memory. And maybe check what battery your dimmer takes before you drive to the store. Just a thought…